Maffei’s is unassuming from the sidewalk. It could pass for any other middling pizza shop in the city. Inside, the décor does little to change the customer’s mind, but once Dominic, the talkative proprietor, greets you, you’ll begin to view the joint differently. Dominic exemplifies old-school customer service, exuding a genuineness that we typically experience today as an empty, forced smile sitting below expressionless eyes.

Dominic noticed me immediately but gave me a second to defrost my glasses before asking how I was doing. At his recommendation I ordered Grandma’s Slice, an thick square cut of pizza slicked on both sides with extra virgin olive oil and topped with mozzarella and roasted plum tomatoes.

The olive oil is brushed light, keeping the slice from being too greasy. In fact, everything about the slice is light and careful. The cheese to sauce ratio falls only slightly in favor of the cheese. The garlic works in tandem with the basil and the flavor of the tomatoes. The crust and edges are mildly crispy; the dough is soft. Nothing stands out, and I mean that in the best way possible. There is not a better balanced slice of pizza in Manhattan. You won’t feel like you’ve bombed your guts with this one. This is a slice your grandmother would be proud to serve you.

688 6th Ave.

Like pizza? Of course you do. Hit @JackEComplex to rep Yo Home Slice in your hometown.