Conceived in Japan and brought to life in the USA via Italy, this is what we call some well-traveled denim. Stay internationally fresh with today’s Buy It Now, the hand-crafted Fulton Harrison jeans from Earnest Sewn. So however you say it—”sayonara,” “ciao,” or “I’m out”—you’re good to go! See below for how to Buy It Now…

EARNEST SEWN FULTON HARRISON JEANS
CLICK here to BUY IT NOW at Earnest Sewn, $195

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Like a good pair of dress shoes, everyone should own a pair of high-quality jeans in their wardrobe. But as you delve deeper into the world of denim, you’ll find that—like everything else—as quality goes up, so does the price tag. Seeing that we want you to get the most out of a purchase that should be treated as an investment, we hollered at our friend Kiya Babzani, co-founder of San Francisco’s denim utopia Self Edge, to find out exactly what you’re paying for when you drop dough on designer jeans. Read on for his denim tips, as well as which brands won’t break the bank and the truth about washing raw denim…

Complex: What really separates the $75 tier of denim from the $200 tier?

Kiya Babzani: I’d like to think that you’re paying for better quality, but unfortunately with 99% of brands available you’re paying for the designer’s name. Often the consumer doesn’t fully see the difference until after a few months of daily wear when the denim has aged naturally.

Complex: What do you see as the next big trend in denim washes?

Kiya Babzani: We hope that raw denim continues as it is denim in its original true form. Just like you wouldn’t purchase a T-shirt with rips and holes or a watch with a cracked bezel, we see no point in buying a pair of jeans that looks like it’s already been worn for two years.

Complex: Give us three brands you recommend that won’t kill our budgets.

Kiya Babzani: Real Japan Blues, Iron Heart, and Flat Head are doing amazing things. These brands put so much work into the denim itself that the way their jeans look after a few months of wear is so dope you’d have to see in person to believe.

Complex: Some denim nerds say that the only to way to wash your jeans is in the ocean. What is really the best to wash your denim without messing it up? And is the “never wash your jeans” thing good advice, or all hype?

Kiya Babzani: We recommend washing jeans inside-out in cold water while using a gentle detergent. As opposed to using a dryer, line-drying works best. Ocean washes are great, but can leave a terrible smell that can only be removed by doing a hot wash. The “never wash your jeans” or “don’t wash for six months” is all hype and another way to make something extremely accessible seem more exotic to those just starting to learn about denim. At the end of the day they’re still jeans and probably the most resilient article of clothing most people will ever own.

Complex: What’s denim weight indicate and is that something that you should really care about?

Kiya Babzani: Denim weight is measured by square yard of loomstate denim; 14.5oz denim weighs 14.5oz per square cut yard of denim in its raw state. Denim weight is important in that it effects the way the denim will fade and age over time, but it’s just one of the many factors that goes into what makes up a certain denim. Twill-weave pattern, post-weave processes, indigo type, indigo dipping style, and the weave-cross pressure combined all determine what the denim will end up feeling and looking like after repeated wears.

Complex: Is taking denim to the tailors something only a soccer dad should do?

Kiya Babzani: We recommend only hemming jeans. We think there are so many different styles of jeans available from most manufacturers that there should be no reason to spend $300 on jeans that you’d have to take to the tailor to have modified beyond a simple inseam shortening.

Complex: What dress or casual options are still appropriate with denim? How can you rock a blazer with denim without looking like a tool?

Kiya Babzani: In the 1980s, Calvin Klein really helped pave the way for jeans to truly become a mainstream fashion staple and since then it’s been re-appropriated in every way imaginable. I’m more of a purist when it comes to jeans, I’m not a huge fan of seeing it done very dressed up with a blazer, but then again some might not like looking like they’re straight out of a 1950s’ motorcycle rebel film.

Complex: What denim fit do you recommend for sneakers?

Kiya Babzani: A great classic straight fit jean or something slightly on the slim side is great for wearing with sneakers. It makes the outfit if the jeans are right.

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STORE: Context Clothing

CITY: Madison, WI

SINCE: 2005

FOUNDED BY: Sam Parker and Ryan Huber

PRICES: $$$ (out of 5)

WHY WE COSIGN: What DQM and UNFTD are to sneaker stores, Context Clothing is to denim shops. Not satisfied with just selling denim, these guys opted to head down the “boutique” path and make the in-store experience just as cool as the product. Much like sneakerheads, denim connoisseurs are often interested in the story behind the final product as much as the item itself. From the quality of the denim to the cut, Context knows everything there is to know and are more than happy to share the wealth (unlike their sometimes overly pretentious cousins in the sneaker industry).

Stocking brands like Atelier LaDurance, A.P.C., Dunderdon, Engineered Garments, Nom de Guerre, Nudie Jeans and Woolrich Woolen Mills, these guys have an eye for quality and that’s for damn sure. So get your denim game as proper as your sneaker collection and make sure to stop buy…if you’re ever in Wisconsin. You would be a fool not to, what else is in Wisconsin?

BRANDS CARRIED: Atelier LaDurance, Nom De Guerre, Nudie, A.P.C., Kicking Mule Workshop, Woolrich Woolen Mills, Wings + Horns, Somet, Shades of Greige, Quoddy, Momotaro, Krane, Kenton Sorenson Leather, Jean Shop, Band of Outsiders, Dunderdon, Canada Goose and Engineered Garments.

For pics of the store, an interview with the owner and contact info, see below…

Complex: What was the inspiration behind Context Clothing, and how has it influenced the overall look and feel of your store?
Ryan Huber: We opened in December of 2005 and quickly became popular among dry selvage denim fans. Our eye for fabric and heritage production stems directly from my interest and knowledge of vintage. Sam and I have a passion for customer service that is directly related to our experiences in the bar business. The web site and store layout are products of my art education (UW Wisconsin, Madison Art BFA) as I designed and built all the display pieces with my friend. We also have a full African Lioness displayed in our window just for kicks.

Complex: What are your retail plans for the future?
Ryan Huber: Our future retail plans include launching the best denim repair service in the country, which we offer in the shop. We are also looking into bottling and selling the beer we currently brew for the shop. Our current focus on heritage production, fit, and fabrics is opening doors to offer more refined suiting and shirting. The denim head also wants the best shirt and wants to know how and where it was produced. We present our collections with what we call “transparency in production.” We pride ourselves on our product knowledge and only carry the best.

Complex: Any anticipated collaborations?
Ryan Huber: We are constantly working on collaborations and have a few in the works with The Hill-Side, Gitman Brother’s Vintage, and Alden Shoes.

STORE INFO:
CONTEXT CLOTHING
113 King Street
Madison, WI 53703
608.250.0113

Monday – Wednesday: 12 p.m. – 5 p.m.
Thursday – Saturday: 12 p.m. – 7 p.m.
Sunday: 12 p.m. – 3 p.m.

APRIL 77 RAW DENIM JEANS
CLICK here to BUY IT NOW at REVOLVEclothing.com, $75

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And don’t be afraid to throw a hoodie under it when the weather really starts getting brick. Whether it’s for going to class, getting to the office, or just casually doing fuckall, the Vintage Repair Denim Jacket will hold you down just fine. For a detail pic and Buy It Now info, see below…

G-STAR LIGHT VINTAGE REPAIR DENIM JACKET
Click here to Buy It Now at Ssense.com, $279

What are they, made of iron? Nope. The fabric used in these pants is patented Coolmax, which is not only lightweight and stretchy, but also provides moisture control to prevent that sweaty-balls conundrum. Add the rubber-coated buttons that help avoid snags, the bar tacks in high stress points that prevent rips, some black denim to hide stains—well, you got yourself some fly jeans. See below for details and Buy It Now info…

DANNY GARCIA QUIKSILVER COOLMAX DENIM
Click here to Buy It Now at quiksilver.com, $75

Let’s be honest. Most white jeans you see on the street—you know, the ones that look like they’ve been sitting in bleach since winter and fit like cardboard—look mad douchebaggy. More power to you if you can successfully pull off the bright-white denim look, but for those that are still on the fence, we’ve got the perfect item to break you in.

Today’s Buy It Now, brought to you by Swedish label Our Legacy, are technically “white” but they are made entirely of organic cotton, which gives them a soothing cream color—more L.E.S. than East Hampton. If you’re gonna experiment with lighter colors of denim, here’s your first pair. For Buy It Now info, details, and pics, see below…

OUR JEANS IN ORGANIC WHITE
CLICK here to BUY IT NOW at revolveclothing.com, $114

It’s a hard life we live trying to find the perfect denim—you know, not too baggy and not too tight. Well, no need to look any further ’cause professional skateboarder Andrew Reynolds designed the Altamont Reynolds Wilshire Denim to fit just the way you like. The low-rise waist, button-fly, and slim-fitting legs will help the ladies peep your shoe game and the stretch denim material ensures that your knots will fit. Check out other colorways, detail pics, and Buy It Now info after the jump…

ALTAMONT REYNOLDS WILSHIRE DENIM
CLICK here to BUY IT NOW at activerideshop.com, $77
INDIGO RAW:

TOBACCO:

Welcome to the wide world of jorts (a.k.a. jean-shorts), adored by disco party promoters and Alabama mixtape rappers alike. We’re guessing you lean to the middle-right of that continuum (although we fucks with Yelle too)—but in any case, you never wanna take the jorts look to the extreme. So for those who want to rock jean-shorts without looking foolish, Cali-based KR3W has the perfect pair for you.

Today’s Buy It Now is the KSlims Denim Short by KR3W, which is 99% cotton and 1% spandex (strecthy!) with frayed leg holes that won’t reveal your hairy man-thighs. For Buy It Now info and both colorways, see below…

KR3W KSLIMS DENIM SHORT – INDIGO
Click here to Buy It Now at Karmaloop.com, $44

KR3W KSLIMS DENIM SHORT – BLACK
Click here to Buy It Now at Karmaloop.com, $44

We like it raw, and we like it for cheap. Denim, that is. Denim. Today’s Buy It Now, from L.A.-based Five Four, is a pair of perfectly serviceable raw denim jeans with a straight fit. They just went on sale, so now’s the time to go straight raw. For detail pics and Buy It Now info, see below…

FIVE FOUR H RAW ORIGINAL STRAIGHT DENIM
Click Here To Buy It Now At Five Four Clothing, $125 $62.50

WEB SITE: Five Four

CITY: Lower East Side, NYC

SINCE: O.G. store: 2001; New store: 2009

FOUNDED BY: Maki Nakaguchi

PRICES: $$$ (out of 5)

WHY WE COSIGN: Back in streetwear’s heyday, Prohibit was a groundbreaker as one of the first to bring Tokyo style to NYC. Well-known for its raw denim, Prohibit—as both a retailer and a brand—helped revolutionize the direction of streetwear with its store at 269 Elizabeth Street, which opened in 2001. In 2007, Prohibit moved to Tokyo as a store with the name “269 Elizabeth Street.” But last month, Prohibit NYC made its triumphant return to the city with a new L.E.S. location (on Allen St. around the corner from Reed Space) and more of the same Japanese goodness that made it popular in the first place.

BRANDS CARRIED: Prohibit, RMC Jeans, and Milton’s

For Prohibit’s most popular items, pics of the store and its address and web site, see below…

PROHIBIT NYC’S MOST POPULAR ITEMS:

PROHIBIT NYC STANDARD DENIM JACKET
Available at Prohibit NYC store, $285

PROHIBIT X MIGHTY CROWN NINE RULAZ (JAPANESE WASH DENIM)
Available at Prohibit NYC store, $399

STORE INFO:
PROHIBIT NYC
152 Allen St. between Rivington & Stanton
New York, NY 10002
212.673.6773

Today’s Buy It Now is the Pegleg Vertical Stripe Jeans (we call ‘em railroad stripes), which are 14-oz., slim-fit and 100% cotton. For Buy It Now info and two more choices from Pegleg, see below…

PEGLEG VERTICAL STRIPE JEANS
Click Here To Buy It Now At Pegleg NYC, $120 $72

PEGLEG REVERSE SELVEDGE DENIM JEANS
Click Here To Buy It Now At Pegleg NYC, $120 $72

PEGLEG ULTRA WASH DENIM JEANS
Click Here To Buy It Now At Pegleg NYC, $120 $72

Web site: Pegleg NYC

Designers such as Just Cavali, Emanuel Ungaro, and Evisu are incorporating this material in their Spring collections. Are you ready to proudly rock your chambray button-downs or should the look stay on Brokeback? Vote ‘HUMP’ or ‘DUMP’ below..

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post's poll.

Today’s Buy It Now is the Indigo Slim Leg Jeans from Topman, made of 100% machine-washable cotton. No faulty designs, no funky pockets, no fancy frills: just quality, affordable denim that looks way more expensive than it really is. For a bigger detail pic of the jeans, Buy It Now info and the new NYC store address, see below…

TOPMAN INDIGO SLIM LEG JEANS
Click Here To Buy It Now At Topman.com, $40

Click here for Topman’s spring trend showcase.

Soho NYC store, opening April 2
Topshop/Topman
478 Broadway
New York, NY 10013

If it’s going to be your first pair, go with the old standby: Levi’s 501. The fit is comfortable, the denim is quality and the price is right, so even if you later decide that white denim isn’t your thing, you won’t have blown three bills.

Today’s Buy It Now is the 501 Originals in deconstructed white'14 oz. selvage denim in a bleached-out natural cotton with a straight leg and button-fly. To see another pic of the jeans and for Buy It Now info, see below…

LEVI’S 501 ORIGINAL JEANS – DECONSTRUCTED WHITE
Click Here To Buy It Now At LevisStore.com, $59.50

That being said, there is a difference, and especially now that times are tough, you should make sure you’re picking out a pair that suits you best. Rather than send yourself into a frenzy the next time you’re browsing the endless walls of washes and fits, relax and take notes from this guide on how to shop, clean and style your jeans.

HOW TO SHOP FOR DENIM
• Use Your Hand: If you have a pair of jeans that drops perfectly on your sneakers, put your hand inside the leg and stretch out your fingers to the check the width. Now you can quickly measure the width of new jeans.

• Use Your Neck: It has been said that the size of your neck is half the size of your waist line. If you’re pressed for time and hate waiting in line to change in the dressing rooms, take the waistline of your jeans and wrap them around your neck.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR DENIM
• Turn Your Jeans Inside Out – Unless you want more fading, always turn your jeans inside-out when washing them.

• Hang Dry - Hang drying jeans keeps their shape and allows them to take a natural aging process.

HOW TO STYLE YOUR DENIM
• Hem It Up: Launder your jeans before taking them up. Also have the original hem reattached.

• Wallet Watch: Slim down your bulky wallet so you don’t wear down a square in your back pocket. Invest in a money clip or a paper-thin card wallet.

Louis Vuitton Taiga Bill Clip Holder, $280 eLuxury

CHECK OUT SOME COMPLEX PICKS FOR A SOLID PAIR OF JEANS

7 For All Mankind Standard Straight Leg Jeans in Mercer $174
Tobi

Rock & Republic Floyd Relaxed Boot $224
Revolve Clothing

Nudie Jeans Average Joe $165
Standard Style

Lanvin is at the tippy-top of tastemakers’ lists these days, so when the brand embarks on a collabo, the style world takes notice. All eyes are now on Lanvin’s recent foray into denim with Swedish brand Acne. The Acne/Lanvin collection successfully captures the emotional aesthetic of denim, using Italian and Japanese fabrics that are carefully selected for their technical or historical significance.

The Acne/Lanvin line comprises both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear clothing, as well as denim shoes, jewelry and bags. For more pictures of the men’s collection and availability info, see below…


Availability: ACNE Studios, New York (212) 625.2828; Barney’s New York (212) 826.8900

The classic combination of dark denim, a fresh white tee and clean kicks is pretty unstoppable. But the success of the ensemble relies heavily on keeping your jeans as dark as when you first bought them. It’s not rocket science, but for those of you who’ve wondered how to maintain crispy blue-jeans, we’ve laid out three sure-fire tips to help achieve the right look…

1. Never wash them. Yeah, that’s right, NEVER. We know you neo-grunge types are rejoicing, but most guys ain’t feeling this. Don’t worry; if you really can’t stand the idea of living in your own funk, read on.

2. If you must wash, put them inside out and use cold water. Let them air dry as the dryer heat can rough up the weave of the denim and lighten them up.

3. Cop some specialized soap. Dark denim connoisseurs swear by Woolite for All Darks. This will help you rock your dark jeans with minimal fading without feeling like Pete Wentz.

In addition to the varying shades of denim, companies are always finding unique ways to flip this style staple with new cuts, designs and interior fabrics. Check out some solid denim jacket choices after the jump.

Flynn Denim Jacket by Earnest Sewn

The Yester Love Jacket by Obey

Fleece Denim Jacket by Yoko Devereaux