While recent developments in the American streetwear market (sneaker craze, anyone?) have opened many new eyes to an accelerating scene, the pace and depth of Japan's independent street fashion make even NYC's tempo seem chopped and screwed.

Born out of an ever-changing Tokyo scene are, of course, respected brands like Bounty Hunter and Neighborhood, which in the past decade have made their way outside Harajuku and into boutiques from SoHo to San Diego. They now vie for shelf space alongside pop favorite BAPE and the cutting-edge shoe-brand-turned-apparel-line Visvim. Like these pioneers, a new wave of Tokyo labels want a share of the American market, and they're offering full cut and sew collections that split the difference between the runway and the streets, upping the ante on the graphic tee–heavy competition.

The influences and styles among this latest crop vary greatly. Tokyo's large and receptive audience affords designers freedom to hone their aesthetic, with end results ranging from old-fashioned simple and cool to far-out and avant-garde. The palette ranges from acid house (Lowrider) to U.S. West Coast culture (Calee), on through reinterpreted Jamaican dancehall vibes (Mackdaddy) and political punk (Covert Org). There's almost no flavor too obscure.

As these brands continue looking for inspiration and success beyond Tokyo, connoisseurs now seek out esoteric names in an effort to stay ahead of the curve in a scene that's yet to see it all. Tokyo's modestly-sized boutiques often carry upwards of 16 brands each, and while many will never set foot on our shores, some are already worthy of attention and may be coming soon to a shop near you.

RISING, SON
Five Japanese brands to get up on now.

Devilock
Devilock is the king of Danzig-friendly punk style. Beyond the gear, the 10-year-old cult label has always been a strong supporter of music and martial arts. It's not all gloom, though; Devilock recently collaborated with Hello Kitty's parent brand, Sanrio.

Garni
Known for its silver accessories, Garni frequently collaborates with apparel brands but also shines on its own. The company's jewelry ranges from the subtle (simple silver cross pendants) to the flashy (diamond-encrusted
key holders).

Mackdaddy
Known as much for its reggae sound system as its apparel line, Mackdaddy turned from its typical Jamaican flavor to an equally colorful Mexican lick for 2006. Highlights include mellow Havana shirts and custom sneaker beads.

Swagger
The brainchild of two die-hard Tokyo hip-hop artists, this brand has become synonymous with the city's club culture. Matching details and the occasional bling make for a quick and easy, yet thoughtful,
hip-hop look.

Bal
Taking a relaxed and personable approach, Bal presents low-key pieces with roots in city life, skating, music, and art. Cut and sew comes first, as streetwear essentials are given an understated Tokyo touch. Home // STYLE // STYLE FEATURES // Japan's Next Wave