It used to be that London's Savile Row was the definitive spot to get a bespoke (or custom tailored) suit. Those days are long gone, as designers across the states have been outfitting everyone from hip-hop royalty like Jay-Z to New York's sharp post-punk quartet Interpol. ">
It used to be that London's Savile Row was the definitive spot to get a bespoke (or custom tailored) suit. Those days are long gone, as designers across the states have been outfitting everyone from hip-hop royalty like Jay-Z to New York's sharp post-punk quartet Interpol. A good tailor has an encyclopedic knowledge of fabrics, a surgeon's precise hands, an eye for detail, and can transform the commonly dressed everyman into a striking individual. The Men's Wearhouse this ain't. According to tailor Mike McCauley of New York's Q. James Bespoke, the characteristics of a full bespoke suit-like handsewn buttonholes, handstitching, and a pure silk lining-factor into a six-week process from fitting to completion. McCauley adds extra touches as well, like a hidden pocket or a client's favorite quote stitched in the lining. Interpol bassist Carlos D. takes full advantage of customization; his outfits by New York tailor Craig Robinson counter the standard notion of the conservative three-piece. Robinson, who spent his high-school years taking apart thrift store suits to recreate them in his own vision, collaborates with his rock star client to craft unusual designs. Flourishes like holster straps, buckles, and drainpipe cuts come about because, as Carlos notes, "My relationship with Craig is not tailor/client. Coming up with a new piece always involves discussion and an exchange of ideas. It's an artistic relationship." Still not convinced? Consider a bespoke suit as an investment that can last a lifetime. Despite the cost and time involved, you're left with an ensemble cut to your exact body shape with materials that set you apart from off-the-rack wear. And as Mark Twain once said, "Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society."
Three tailors who will have you looking sharp in no time.
Mike McCauley (NewYork)
Q. James Bespoke
Full suit: $1,895 to start
www.qjamesbespoke.com
mike@qjamesbespoke.com
Craig Robinson (New York)
Full suit: $2,900 to $3,500
www.craigrobinsonnyc.com
mail@craigrobinsonnyc.com
Kam and Ez (New York/New Jersey)
Full suit: $750 to $1,200
www.kam-ezdesigns.com
kam-ez@kam-ezdesigns.com