A Spiewak ad, circa 1935

Once upon a time, if you wanted to rock the military look, you had to buy gear from the companies that made the real-deal clothing for the Army, Navy, Air Force, and Marines. The wool was scratchy, the duck canvas stiff, and the clothing cut in a one-size-fits-Uncle Sam-only way. It was Semper Fi to fashion or nothing. Nowadays, everyone from Marc Jacobs to Ralph Lauren bombards the runways with combat-inspired garb, and fashionistas around the globe look ready to battle for Fallujah. So what's a military-head to do?

He should look to Spiewak. Polish immigrant Isaac Spiewak opened his first shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, in 1904, selling handmade sheepskin vests to New York's huddled and tired masses. Over the years, the company officially known as I. Spiewak & Sons has evolved into a supplier of field jackets, pea coats, and flight jackets to the U.S. military as well as into one of the original urban outfitters, its sturdy clothes having been adopted by hip-hop heads and downtown hipsters. As it turns out, everybody's after the same thing.

"What I do is mine Spiewak's history of military-wear. There aren't many companies that do that," says Spiewak brand director Dan Hendricks. "What it's all about for us is re-addressing the fit, which a lot of the time is taking it back to the original tailored lines. Men's clothing is all about that tailored look now. Taking things like a basic tanker jacket and putting it into a herringbone tweed. Making it modern."

While some companies with long histories flinch when adopted by a subculture, Spiewak has usually embraced the unsolicited attention. Some of the company's recent success can be traced to a photo shoot featuring the members of Junior M.A.F.I.A. in its clothing. "There was a big push and exposure in the mid-1990s with streetwear," Hendricks says. "Also, the way that we started viewing brands was changing, too. With Spiewak, we take technical elements, outdoor lines, and what I call a ‘dad mainstream look' and turn it into really good street styling. It's fashion that works in the real world."

Hendricks points out that Spiewak's Meade field jacket, coming next spring, will be available in a breathable waterproof version and an alternative short waisted, distressed cotton wash. In other words, there's an option for the guy who needs his workwear functional, and another for the guy who favors style. Either way, everyone wins.


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